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The lowdown:
  • Former Portuguese enclave about the size of Wales (but think pigs rather than sheep)
  • First popular with those groundbreaking cutting-edge tourists: the hippies of the sixties
  • 105 km of almost unbroken beach - not good if you're allergic to sand
  • Nowadays there are apparently as many bird-watchers as there are trance-heads (although I don't suppose either group is that aware of the other)
  • Predominantly rural inland areas, dotted with sleepy villages and luminiscent, white-washed churches
  • Panjim: the evocative colonial capital of Goa
Alternatively, there is the glossy travel mag description.

In many ways Goa can be referred to as 'India for Dummies'. The toilets are generally your flushing kind rather than a hole in the floor. A plentiful supply of Western food is available. You can usually get by with some strange concoction of English.

Click to see map of Goa  Map of Goa

Climate
Definitely the tropics. From around 25 to 30 Celsius (77-86 Fahrenheit) all year round, but slap on top of that liberal doses of humidity and you get a fairer picture.

Health
You'll need to get a few inoculations before you go. You will also need to stock up on anti-malarials. See your doctor.

Visa
To visit India still requires a tourist visa. The Indian High Commission deals with all UK applications.

Bargaining
All prices in Goa are as fluid as the Ocean. Don't be shy about bargaining. All prices tourist-side are greatly inflated. Even if it may appear so, you won't hurt anyone's feelings by trying. You can obviously often get things cheaper by venturing out of the tourist belt. The markets of Margao, Panjim and Mapusa are worth a wander.

Beachside
The coastal belt is roughly divided between the naughty north and sexy south - well, at least most of the infamous full moon parties take place in the North, with the South largely catering for a more conservative brand of tourism. In most areas you will find a glut of restaurants and bars, local stores/telephone kiosks (ideal place to buy bottled water), internet access and makeshift stalls selling North Indian curios.
Watersports are available in some areas and beach shacks can often arrange dolphin tours.

A brief rund-down of the main beaches and selection of Southern resorts

Eating Out
Most restaurants offer a combination of local Goan specialities (predominantly seafood), more general Indian cuisine (much of it originating from the Northern Punjab region), a splattering of Chinese dishes and standard steak-n'-chips Western fare.
Delhi-belly affects all of India - not just the nation's capital and Goa is by no means immune, so you may want to stock up on the Immodium. Avoiding meat dishes, at least soon after arrival, is probably your best bet, as is ensuring that you always drink bottled water.
A couple of recommendations: if you are in the North, Florentine's is well worth checking out. The Chicken Cafrael is simply sublime. And that's coming from a non-meat eater! And if you are down South, Leela Beach Resort has a superb Sunday Italian buffet - especially if you want quality food away from the normal 'multicuisine' fare.

Beach Shacks
These temporary constructions can be found on most beaches, offering everything from sun-loungers to full evening dinner. Most are now remarkably well set up (including fridges - you'll be surprised at just how cold the cold drinks are), and usually offer the catch of the day.
Those with the best reputation among the locals are Pedro's on Benaulim Beach and Martin's Corner on Betalbatim.

Inland
It is definitely worth a visit into the heart of Goa. The top attraction is probably Old Goa, at one time (only about 400 years ago) described as the Rome of the East. Great if you're into old Historic Catholic relics.
Although not exactly inland, Goa's evocative capital city of Panjim, nestling on the banks of the Mandovi river is well worth a visit. The crumbling old structures of the colonial past still command a certain reverence.
If you ever get the opportunity to wander round a village, I would definitely recommend it. Tranquility just oozes from the shady back-roads. Well, once you get past the dogs, pigs and chickens running riot.
With more attractions now on offer, it is possible to visit a spice garden and marvel at the impact horticulture has had on gastronomy. Crocodiles and exotic bird species can be viewed from the comfort of an afernoon river-boat cruise. Contact us if interested.

Transport
Ready supply of taxis (now mainly the functional small Maruti car-vans rather than the more elegant, less reliable Ambassadors) from about the minute you step off the plane. Be sure to agree the price first and don't be shy about bargaining: generally should get about a third off the first price you are quoted.
Motorbikes and scooters are readily available at most of the main beach centres. Be sure to have your passport, as a copy will be taken. An international driving licence (available from the AA in the UK) is not a bad idea. You will need a sturdy constitution and a heightened awareness of human behaviour as there aren't many road rules.
Cycles are also available to rent at many of the resorts.

Pollution
With the tourism industry burgeoning in Goa, the local infrastructure has found it hard to keep up and as a result pollution and litter is on the increase. Lonely Planet recommends:

  • Don't drop litter - take it with you.
  • Refuse plastic bags in shops
  • Refill mineral bottles as much as possible (large 5 litre bottles are available from many of the general stores)
  • Ask your hotel/beach shack how they dispose of their litter
Links Goan Cuisine
 
    
Daryl & Natalie's Wedding, 7th December 2002, Goa